Prague Preview

Ah, Prague, you have not lived up to my expectations thus far. I breezed through the famous castle in under three hours, after which I spent the rest of the day walking around and around old town. (No, literally - I did some sporadic shopping that required me to retrace my steps when I decided to exchange a coat I had already dropped off at the hostel).

And since I've seen and tasted enough to know that the food is cheap but also not very good, the thing that's made the biggest impression so far is my hostel.

The Madhouse certainly lives up to its name, and is therefore best suited to travelers of a certain age who like to rage, rage, rage. In other words, staying here is like being in college all over again - or more specifically, at a frat party that never ends. To that end, the staff are more or less like the upperclassmen you idolized and hung out with as a freshman because they could get you alcohol. They drink from approximately 7pm onwards, and they expect you to keep up with them. The college analogy, unfortunately, extends to the noise pollution too; your roommates probably won't get back until late, the walls are thin and the doors squeaky, etc. (And if you're me they might even try to have sex in the room while they think you're asleep!) But if you can embrace the madness, the location is great and you'll meet lots of cool people. I met a guy from Israel, for example, who I'm hoping will send me tips on what to do in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv before I head there next month.

​This is the common area.

Side note: who knew that playing beer pong and slap cup could make me feel so nostalgic?

I Am Packed...for Prague

Throughout high school and college I was an obsessive outfit planner. If I didn't have the next day's clothes laid out before I went to bed, you can bet I at least fell asleep going through my closet in my head and mentally picking out several options. These days, though, I find that I just don't really care as much as I used to.  ​

There are two ways this change might be interpreted. Either it's admitting to myself that I can't sartorially keep up with Parisian girls (nothing like getting on the Metro to bring your self-esteem down a little!) or I'm being pragmatic because it's only a matter of time before I get to school and am forced to change into my frumpy chef's uniform.​

Either way, I really only plan ahead now is when I'm traveling. Because those "budget" airlines only live up to their name when you don't check a bag, and it's simply impossible to stuff an entire wardrobe into a carry-on.​

Photo inspired by I Am Packed, a site I discovered a while ago and only recently remembered since I've been doing a lot of packing traveling. This is maybe the second time I will have flown somewhere without checking a bag. It's kind of scary for me to pack this light but if I end up needing something I don't have, all the more reason to go shopping right?

A Weekend in Amsterdam

The last time I was in Amsterdam the only thing I saw was the inside of my hotel during a 12-hour layover on the way back to SFO from Cannes. So it was with great anticipation that I awoke before dawn to catch the first train out of Gare du Nord, tagging along on a friend's pre-planned trip. 

One of the first things I noticed upon entering the city proper was the way that the old town (the part that includes both the red light district and infamous weed-friendly "coffee shops") resembles something out of a Tim Burton movie or Dr. Seuss book. And not because of the interesting characters drawn to the area, but due to the buildings that lean every which way in structural design-defying ways.

Walking around the various neighborhoods reminded me of the Scandinavian cities that I visited this summer. To me, Amsterdam had the old-world charm of Copenhagen combined with the grungy/hipster/rebellious streak of Stockholm but with more ethnic diversity than either of the two others. I was both surprised and pleased to see lots of Asian restaurants that were pretty authentic-tasting (and appeared to be run by people of the corresponding ethnicity). We had good sushi and Thai food, but also saw lots of Chinese, Brazilian and Argentinian restaurants.

Another thing I enjoyed about Amsterdam? The coffee culture. (I'm referring here to actual coffee shops that specialize in products that come from beans, not dried flowers). Even though I only drank it once or twice over the entire weekend, I found it comforting to walk around and feel surrounded by cafés sporting lattes and the like because it reminded me of Seattle. Paris does a lot of things well, but coffee is not one of them.

A Monsoon in Venice

I arrived in Venice just in time for the first rain in several months, according to my host. Sure enough, as soon as I finished lugging my suitcase up to the fourth floor apartment (Venetian buildings don't have lifts), there was a clap of thunder followed by screams from outside - presumably from tourists caught unaware. By the time I had showered, changed and mapped out a plan to find a place to eat dinner, the rain had let up and only a brisk wind remained. But after the sweltering heat of central and southern Italy, I welcomed it. The storm made the pavement slick and ridden with puddles, but it also cleared the sky, leaving behind streaks of clouds that made it look like an Impressionist painting.

My tour guide, a Venetian local, likened her hometown to living "in a museum." The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage site that runs on tourism, meaning that residents must comply by keeping up traditional appearances. Despite Venice's myriad museums and churches, the only major sites I visited were St. Mark's, the bell tower and the Grand Canal via boat tour because, as Rick Steves' aptly put it, the best site is the city itself.

Even with a map I found it tricky to navigate so I spent a good part of my stay wandering aimlessly, reassured by the fact that I could never get too lost on an island. My apartment was about a 25 minute walk to St. Mark's, a trip I made many times, but because all the "streets" look vaguely identical it meant that each time my route was slightly different. And while the high cost of living has led to a considerable exodus of locals within recent decades, the upshot for visitors is that it means the streets are quite safe, even after dark.

​San Marco post-storm and exactly how I like it: without tourists and pigeons.

Shopping in Venice was a treat, thanks to all the specialized artisan shops. Venetian specialties include elaborate Carnevale masks, prints and paper goods, but there are also outlets for lace and handblown glass from the nearby islands of Burano and Murano respectively. But perhaps the most surprising (and random) Venetian tradition I partook in was attending a lively performance by Interpreti Veneziani at Chiesa San Vidal. I'm not generally a huge Vivaldi fan, but when most bars are closed Sunday night it's a fun diversion.

Roman Holiday After Hours

Apart from the blazing heat during the day and being eaten alive by mosquitoes at night, I quite enjoyed Rome. And even though I managed to make my way to most of the big tourist attractions (e.g. the Colosseum, Forum, Spanish Steps, etc.), I found it most fulfilling just to walk around and people watch.  I spent most of my time in the historic Pantheon neighborhood. At night, when the temperature dipped to a pleasant balminess, the old town came alive with buzzing trattorias and osterias and people sitting in darkening piazzas, admiring the floodlit landmarks and absorbing the atmosphere.

​Movement on the Spanish Steps at night.

I was sad to leave and can't wait to return, in part because the food there was excellent. Some of my favorite places, by way of a friend who visited Rome last summer, are:

- Il Cartoccio for deep-fried fish, artichokes, cheeses, you name it.
- Sant'Eustachio for coffee/espresso.
- Old Bridge for gelato.
- Le Fate for their fixed price student menu. (10€ for appetizer, pasta, dessert and glass of wine).

Vatican City Revealed

Since I'm not a religious person, my interest in the Vatican primarily stems from my high school obsession with Angels & Demons. That, and everything about it is sort of shrouded in mystery and scandal. I'm sure at some point I learned some things about it in AP European History but that knowledge is long gone. Luckily I had a great tour guide to explain what I was looking at in the museum and church.

St. Peter's Basilica​

I don't usually enjoy guided tours because the explanations provided tend to exceed my attention span, but Valerie (of Rome Walks) was awesome. She paid each person in our intimate five strong group careful attention, answering all our questions and catering to our specific interests. Valerie was both highly knowledgable and engaging - less like a historian and more like a storyteller.

The School of Athens by Raphael. Michelangelo is the melancholy figure in the center with his head on his hand.

She spoke at length about Michelangelo and Raphael (the artists behind the Vatican's most famous paintings) and their differences in style and personality, as well the scandal and drama stirred up under various popes - like the Borgia pope who allegedly organized orgies and Julius II who was the driving force behind the city's most ambitious building projects.

​The gallery of maps: my favorite room in the museum.

After going through the museum, we took time to admire the Sistine Chapel before ending the tour with the famous St. Peter's Basilica. No words can describe the beauty, grandeur and intricacy of it. Not even the photos do it justice.

​One of many photos of St. Peter's Basilica. Check out the rest on Flickr.

Note: Tour groups get to skip the line to get inside. Queuing outside for hours to get in might not be such a big deal in cooler months, but in 90 degree weather it's probably the last thing anyone really wants to do. And unless you're already a Catholic history nerd, you'll probably learn something new.

Taking a Dip in the Deep Blue Sea, Sorrento & Capri

The best way to enjoy Italy despite the searing summer heat is, hands down, on a boat in the Mediterranean, where you can either dive into the perfectly blue water or sip an ice cold Nastro Azzurro as you zoom past the villa-studded Amalfi coastline. It's divine.

​Sorrento

Leaving Sorrento (gorgeous seaside town about an hour's train ride from Naples), behind, a small contingent from my hostel in Naples jumped on a boat and headed for the island of Capri. Our driver took us the long way around to the marina, stopping periodically so we could jump in and swim through some of the island's many caves and grottoes.

​Yup. Swam through it.

During our afternoon break we stopped at the marina on the far side of the island. Although there was a lovely beach right by the pier we decided to take the funicular up to the hill-top town of Anacapri.

​Capri as seen from the funicular.

The main shopping street boasting designer names was packed with tourists both foreign and national. Since I wasn't really in the mood to splurge on a Roberto Cavalli bikini or pair of diamond earrings, for me it was more enjoyable to take in the views and get lost in the town's winding, labyrinthine passageways.

​Off the beaten path at Anacapri

We returned to Sorrento tired, slightly sunburnt but very content. I enjoyed a nice dinner and wine at a seafood restaurant overlooking the piazza with some newfound friends before hopping the Circumvesuviana train back to Naples, where we passed the time playing charades.