Last September I had the chance to go to Cuba. I didn't post about it here because: 1) internet access was practically nonexistent during the trip and 2) I was planning to write a more substantive piece about what I learned there.

I finally published the essay on Medium. You can read it here.

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AuthorMisa Shikuma
Categoriestravel diary
Tagscuba

In Noah Baumbach's While We're Young, which I watched on a rainy afternoon in DC, a childless forty-something couple (Ben Stiller and Naomi Watts) befriends a twenty-something couple (Adam Driver and Amanda Seyfried). Identity crisis as well as confrontation of social pressure and expectation ensue. At first, the older couple feels inspired and revitalized by the boundless energy and free-wheeling lifestyle of the youths. But after a certain point, they come to realize that there is a limit to the things that they can do at their age (or are they just succumbing to the conventions of society...), ranging from the superficial (wearing fedoras and brogues unironically) to the practical (embarking on spontaneous trips) and the biological (having children).

Meanwhile, the younger couple embraces everything that previous generations eschewed in favor of new technology (e.g. vinyl records, VHS tapes). They're fun and seemingly free from the responsibilities expectations that befall their elders, but they also have no money, ever. And yet they have a chic industrial loft in Brooklyn. (It becomes a running joke that whenever the twenty-somethings go out with the forty-somethings, the former never even attempts a courtesy reach for the wallet, instead leaving the latter to foot the bill).  

The juxtaposition of two couples' everyday lives and the unfurling of their friendship is masterful but then, of course, everything gets derailed. Stiller's character becomes convinced that Driver's is out to destroy him. Their ideological differences fissure and threaten what was once a promising mentor-mentee relationship, for those who grew up in the age of the internet regard everything as public property, good for the remixing and appropriating. To them, truth is mutable and malleable. Stiller's character cannot abide by that mentality, and for that he appears obsolete. And because both male characters are documentary filmmakers, authenticity, veracity and verisimilitude all figure heavily into the story.

Youth has luck, blind ambition and the power of reinvention on its side. And, ultimately, that's what the older couple misses - not the actual packing up and moving somewhere on a whim or doing hallucinogenic drugs, but rather the possibility of being reckless; of having the option to make decisions that lead to drastic changes while being at a point in life where the consequences are negligible. In other words, being able to fuck up and know that things will still be okay, and to not be held accountable by the world at large; to truly live in the moment with little to no regard for the future.

The film resonated with me not only because I identified with the younger couple (and on a deeper level than just having a penchant for old and vintage things), but also that the friends I visited on my east coast trip were, in their own way, trying to navigate the same issues as the characters. 

"I'm glad I got to enjoy part of my 20s," said a friend who, after taking a few years off after undergrad, is heading to medical school this fall.  

"Everything I'm doing right now is the result of a decision I made when I was 18; when I was too young to make it," said another, currently a second year med student. 

They are wondering whether if by shouldering one responsibility they are sacrificing some part of themselves that they won't be able to get back. Not time, per se, but rather the perception that they are missing out on whatever it is that most other people their age are currently doing, and will do while they're still in school and, later, in residency. It's like youth is merely the illusion of a great long hallway with infinite doors of opportunity that, as the years pass, are more often closed than open.

The year that I graduated, 2012, an essay entitled "The Opposite of Loneliness" was making the rounds on the internet. It wasn't just that it was an impeccable piece of writing that beautifully articulated how it felt to be leaving the place you'd called home for the past four years, but also its author had tragically passed away not long after publication.

...let us get one thing straight: the best years of our lives are not behind us. They’re part of us and they are set for repetition as we grow up and move to New York and away from New York and wish we did or didn’t live in New York. I plan on having parties when I’m 30. I plan on having fun when I’m old... ...We have these impossibly high standards and we’ll probably never live up to our perfect fantasies of our future selves. But I feel like that’s okay.

We’re so young. We’re so young. We’re twenty-two years old. We have so much time. There’s this sentiment I sometimes sense, creeping in our collective conscious as we lay alone after a party, or pack up our books when we give in and go out – that it is somehow too late. That others are somehow ahead. More accomplished, more specialized. More on the path to somehow saving the world, somehow creating or inventing or improving. That it’s too late now to BEGIN a beginning and we must settle for continuance, for commencement.
— Marina Keegan, "The Opposite of Loneliness"

 

The fear. The pressure. The sensation of being stuck on a pre-determined track. While We're Young suggests that they never really go away, but that there is a solution. Both the film and the essay encourage seeking comfort in those around you. For Ben Stiller's character, it's his wife. For Keegan, it's her classmates.

We're twenty-four years old. We have friendships that have withstood cross-country moves and bad wi-fi connections. The best is yet to come.

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AuthorMisa Shikuma
Categoriespersonal

In my junior year as an undergraduate, I took an anthropology seminar entitled Nature, Culture, Heritage from a visiting professor whose specialty was earthquakes. Other than Skyping a documentarian and playing Settlers of Catan during class, what I remember most was my final paper on dark tourism, specifically the preservation of World War II heritage at Auschwitz and Tule Lake. I won't quote my sources (nor myself, even though it's a damn good paper), but the research I did for that project opened up a new dimension of self-reflection.

What does it mean to have monuments that, unlike the Pyramids of Egypt, which are lauded as pinnacles of human achievement, instead serve as repositories of tragedy, trauma and negative memory? What does it say about us that we flock to them in droves and take selfies? This is what I asked myself as I waited in line outside the 9/11 Memorial Museum, driven by curiosity but also dreading what I might see inside.

The museum itself is cleverly designed. Being underground and incorporating some of the remaining foundations of the towers, it feels like a tomb, but I suppose that is part of the point. Hundreds, probably more like thousands, of artifacts are grouped together to help create a painstaking, blow-by-blow visceral account of what happened that fateful morning. Everything from photos, videos and articles to audio, shrapnel and the shoes that survivors wore when they escaped the collapsing building is featured.

The main exhibition is unrelenting in practically every way imaginable - in gravity, in detail and in tragedy. Even if the curators had only half the material, the museum would still be effective because of its location at Ground Zero; multimedia displays aside, its spatial proximity to the actual event is on par with that of Auschwitz. In other words, simply being there changes you. 

Arguments against monuments like these generally follow several flows of logic, one being that generating empathy is not enough; that said monuments are politically motivated and thus manipulative; that the coagulation of a collective tragedy commodifies personal experience. For me, the most poignant part of the exhibit was a voicemail from a passenger on one of the planes that hit the towers to his wife. A transcript had been printed on the wall, but one could also listen to an audio clip of the actual message. I did, and felt dirty afterward, like I had violated something sacrosanct between two people who had loved each other. Of course, it was the widow's choice to donate her late husband's last message to the museum, but I still wonder why she didn't just keep it for herself.

I think it comes down to why people visit sites like these. Peculiar souls that are simply drawn to the morbid and the macabre contribute to commoditization like 4chan users to a nude photo leak; they just add white noise rather than substance to what should be an intellectual dialogue. Live and learn, learn and live, and hope that history doesn't repeat itself.

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AuthorMisa Shikuma
Categoriestravel diary

Some of my favorite moments from my week in New York City. And, yes, there was a lot of memorable eating.

Stained glass at the Cloisters.

Stained glass at the Cloisters.

Quiet day at Fort Tryon Park.

Quiet day at Fort Tryon Park.

Poncie takes a bite from the BEST smoked salmon from Russ & Daughters.

Poncie takes a bite from the BEST smoked salmon from Russ & Daughters.

View of downtown from the Sky Room at the New Museum.

View of downtown from the Sky Room at the New Museum.

Secret lemon confit from Morgenstern's Ice Cream.

Secret lemon confit from Morgenstern's Ice Cream.

See the rest here.

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AuthorMisa Shikuma

Prior to this year, I'd been to New York twice and kind of lived there for a summer*, so I figured I had all the Must Sees covered. Because when it comes to going some place where half the experience is putting up with all the other slow-moving tourists, I always say one and done. Except for the High Line; I can't get enough of that park. 

This time I came primarily to visit two particular friends who are both in their second year of medical school, i.e. crazy busy. And while I focused on newer and less popular attractions (the Cloisters, the Morbid Anatomy Museum, etc.), it quickly became apparent that no matter how much they wanted to partake in obscure NYC things, academics prevented them. Luckily, I tend to enjoy my own company.

On an overcast morning that kept one hand at the ready to grab an umbrella, I took the subway down to Battery Park, shouldered my way through the young men offering guidance to confused out-of-towners, and found my way to the ferry dock. Eschewing Liberty Island (the statue is overrated), I disembarked at Ellis Island. Whereas Angel Island feels more like sleepaway camp with its modest wooden buildings, Ellis Island's austere stone structures evoke an early twentieth century sanitarium. 

A few photos below.

Main entrance.

Main entrance.

Inside the registration room.

Inside the registration room.

Departure.

Departure.

More wanderings about the city here.

*Okay fine I lived in downtown Jersey City but I worked in Tribeca. That counts for something, right?

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AuthorMisa Shikuma
Categoriestravel diary

After several days of sunshine in Dallas, I moved on to the frigid east coast springtime, starting in Washington, DC. The last time I visited the capital was some time in elementary school, when our family tagged along with my mom, who was attending a conference. Mostly I remember being upset that my poor father (whom we dispatched at some ungodly hour) was unable to procure tickets to visit the White House. Also I made everyone trek to Arlington; I've harbored a fascination with death and cemeteries from a young age. 

Highlights from this recent jaunt include: winning science night at The Argonaut (the project not the trivia), visiting NPR HQ (seeing not one but two Tiny Desks and taking a nap on the couch behind my friend's desk), having delicious Spanish food at Jaleo with my mom (again in town for a conference), crashing my friend's family's elaborate Easter celebration, and buying some cool art from the Torpedo Factory Art Gallery in Old Town Alexandria. 

Pictures below. 

The Reading Room in the Library of Congress. 

The Reading Room in the Library of Congress. 

Jessie Ware (far right) sound checking before her Tiny Desk concert at NPR. Her acoustic rendition of Champagne Kisses was lovely. 

Jessie Ware (far right) sound checking before her Tiny Desk concert at NPR. Her acoustic rendition of Champagne Kisses was lovely. 

Washington Monument. 

Washington Monument. 

Inside the National Cathedral. 

Inside the National Cathedral. 

Faux cherry blossom. 

Faux cherry blossom. 

See more of the capital and a few snaps of Old Town Alexandria here

Posted
AuthorMisa Shikuma