Channeling My Inner Anthropologist

"Drink lots of water," advised the California couple I met on the Circumvesuviana train en route to Pompeii.

"Otherwise you might end up like one of those mummies!"

​...this could have been me

The ruins at Pompeii and Herculaneum were the reason I forewent Milan and Florence for southern Italy, because I felt like I would be a bad anthropologist if I didn't make an effort to see such remarkably preserved evidence of early civilization. My dedication proved crucial, as it was over 90 degrees and the stone ruins offer no shade. But luckily (at least at Pompeii) the old fountains are still fully operational with cool, clear drinking water.

​The Macellum at Pompeii - the city's main market

While I'm glad I saw Pompeii, ultimately I preferred Herculaneum because the former felt too touristy and too big - like if you got lost you could unwittingly spend an entire day there, or perhaps never make it out... (Also I was expecting to see more petrified human remains, so that was a bit of a disappointment).

The Sede degli Augustali at Herculaneum​

Herculaneum is a lot more intact as a site, both in terms of its physical structures and its art. The paintings, mosaics and statues retain their vibrancy despite being nearly two thousand years old, which is pretty remarkable. It also provides a more intimate experience, as there are less visitors and you can get a good look around the entire town in under two hours. I didn't even get lost once!

Mysteries of The National Archaeological Museum of Naples (SNSFW)*

While Pompeii & Herculaneum are pretty incredible to explore in person, visiting the museum in Naples provides a fuller experience because that's where a majority of art and artifacts wound up after excavation. Thus you can get a better sense of who those people were.

​Each of these faces pretty much sums up how I felt in 90 degree weather.

In the museum you have your standard paintings, frescoes, statues, relics and, my favorite, the mosaics. But the most memorable gallery by far is what is officially known as the secret room, or perhaps more appropriately the sex chamber.

​That piece on the left is a good indicator of what's inside.

Upon entering the secret room, the first thing you see are giant stone phalluses. And from there it only gets weirder. There are frescoes depicting couples having sex in various positions, sculptures capturing acts of bestiality, and mysterious humanoid figurines. Don't believe me? Take a look.

​I was going to get this as a postcard for a friend but in the end chose a more tasteful one.

​Poor goat.

​If you're thinking they're just standing on one leg, think again.

​Who knew Romans were so kinky?

*SNSFW = sort of not safe for work

Avoiding Death in Naples

I was warned not to go to Naples at all by friends who were concerned about my safety. After all, the city does have some of the highest crime and unemployment in the country. You can even sense it when wandering the streets - no wait, the restlessness is probably just due to the uncomfortable heat of summer.

​But it is pretty after dark. Especially down by the water.

In truth Naples is fine within the confines of the tourist area, which is basically the triangle between the train station in the east, the Archaeological Museum in the west and the Royal Palace in the south. Even so there's a bit of a gritty feel to it; the one time I was out alone after dark I was a bit paranoid but I kept to the busy main streets. Having just arrived in Rome last night the contrast is quite stark. (Polizia! Everywhere! As compared to not a single one seen in Naples).

​The view down via Mezzocannone.

Honestly I didn't spend a whole lot of time in Naples; my first day I went out to visit the famed sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the second was spent on a boat circling the island of Capri. But it was definitely worth wandering the city's historical center, which has amazing classical architecture, beautiful churches and lots of cool (albeit touristy) shops. Oh, and the pizza! Naples is the birthplace of pizza so I made sure to try out a few different restaurants.

​Inside Gesù Nuovo.

Every time I've moved in the past several years, I find the local drivers to be increasingly worse and more ruthless than the last. (I've previously lived in the Bay Area, New York, and now Paris). But Italy takes the cake on aggressive drivers with no regard for pedestrians. To cross the street one pretty much has to stay on the heels of a local, otherwise risk being stranded on the sidewalk for a very long time. If there aren't any around, though, you just have to take a deep breath, step out onto the street and stare down whatever car or scooter is speeding unrelentingly toward you. If you do go Naples, use Hostel of the Sun as your home base. The staff are incredibly friendly and knowledgeable, and you're sure to meet some cool people who can become your new friends and travel buddies.

Copenhagen, My New Favorite City

It's hard to pick one favorite thing about Copenhagen, which is easily my favorite city on the Scandinavian tour. From the quaint bike-friendliness and hip college-town vibe to the deep sense of history and national pride manifest in the preponderance of beautifully maintained castles and churches, Copenhagen manages to feel both cosmopolitan and traditional. And whereas other cities felt as though we had exhausted all the major attractions within less than two days, I would love to stay here longer. (Or, alternatively, come back real soon).

​Near Amalienborg Castle

We got our royal family fix at Christianborg Palace, Amalienborg Castle and Rosenborg Castle, but outside the city proper are even more regal residences. Because apparently it was a thing for newly anointed kings to build their own castles rather than inheriting the one from his predecessor. I especially liked Rosenborg because the surrounding gardens reminded me a lot of Central Park.

​Sandsculptures

The Rosenborg grounds are located just a bit inland from The Little Mermaid, which honestly was a little underwhelming up close; the sheer volume of tourists detracted from the experience. South of the statue, at Ofelia Beach, the Copenhagen Sandsculpture Festival displays impressive works by artists from all over the world. Their medium is a mixture of sand and clay, which is then periodically sprayed with water to prevent drying out. The exhibit has been going on since the end of May so, sadly, some of the sculptures looked as though they were beginning to decay.

​Spotted at Thorvaldsen

Copenhagen has a plethora of museums, but after visiting all those castles we were feeling a little burnt out on looking at old things. Even so, we still enjoyed Thorvaldsen's Museum and the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek - both sculpture museums. The latter is also renowned for its architecture, with an inner courtyard that's like a greenhouse.

For similar reasons I also tend to get bored of visiting churches but the Church of Our Savior, a baroque masterpiece, is not to be missed. The interior and altarpiece are quite intricate, but the real reason for going is the 90 meter corkscrew spire. And maybe I just have a thing for heights (I've realized through writing that a majority of places I choose to visit tend to be up high), but the view from the top is unbelievable. Another tower we visited was the Rundetårn, or observatory. While not quite as tall as the spire it's equally interesting structurally.

​Inside the observatory.

There are also lots of little things that I like about Copenhagen; small details that I tried to capture in photos. Like the way that locals congregate near the water - either on the wharf or in private boats - soaking up the sunshine and each other's company, perhaps drinking a bottle of wine or sharing some ice cream. Or sitting at a café on the sidewalk watching people go by (Copenhagen is much cleaner than Paris so it makes for a more enjoyable outdoor dining experience).

On our last night we visited Tivoli, the world's second-oldest amusement park and supposedly the inspiration for Disneyland. Secluded by trees in the heart of the city center, once the sun had set and the park lit up, it truly felt like a magical place to relive childhoods long gone.

Getting Schooled on History in Tallinn

A 90 minute ferry ride away from Helsinki sits the Estonian capital where even the Finns go to have fun. (Or so a tour guide told us, but judging from the list of things to do in Helsinki I don't think she was wrong). After disembarking at the pier, beaching Tallinn's rough, industrial exterior immediately gives way to the rustic and quaint Old Town, where one could easily spend several days getting lost in its winding cobblestone streets full of specialty shops, cafés and ancient churches. We only had the better part of an afternoon, so we tried to make the most of it.

For 2 euros, St. Olaf's Church provides a bird's eye view of Old Town from the top of its immense spire, which at one point was the tallest in the world. The view from up top is well worth the price of admission, but the climb up the uneven stone hewn steps is not to be underestimated; let's just say it reminded us of how out of shape we are after a month of making and tasting pastries.

Afterward we rewarded ourselves at the nearby Beer House's happy hour, where one can find 0.5 L portions of select drafts for 3 euros and generous plates of German delicacies for 8-12. Tasty, but it's a good thing I'm not vegetarian any more. Just a few steps down the road is the town square, whose market makes for good souvenir shopping.

Following some more aimless wandering we made our way over to the Hotel Viru, which houses the world's first and only KGB museum. I'm not usually much of a museum person (looking at old things tends to lose its novelty real fast), but this was easily the best guided tour I've ever been on. I mean, come on, it's the KGB! How often do you get a chance to look at some of the original equipment they used to spy on people?

On a more serious note, though, having been indoctrinated via an American public education that communism is bad, it was fascinating to get a more nuanced perspective on what life was like under Soviet rule. Our guide, an Estonian native, didn't leave us with any doubt that her country is quite happy being independent, but she did have some pretty incredible anecdotes about how things were before independence.

Bottom line: When in Scandinavia, go to Tallinn.

Helsinki: Nothing Much to Do

​Helsinki: the design capital of the world. I know this because there are signs everywhere heralding the city's recently earned title, including a particularly not-so-subtle one outside the Design Museum. Even so, the contemporary architecture and chic houseware boutiques are plenty enough indication that Finnish design is the pinnacle of the modern lifestyle. (Think IKEA times ten).

Unfortunately Helsinki doesn't have the most offerings in terms of things to do, which is why we skipped town to go across the water to Tallinn, Estonia - an experience I found much more fulfilling. (More on that later).

Helsinki does have some gorgeous historical architecture, specifically some of the old churches and cathedrals. And with its brightly colored townhouses, brisk sea breeze and stylish city dwellers, it reminded me a lot of a less crowded San Francisco. I'm sure we could have found more things to see and do in the Finnish capital, but Estonia beckoned.

Seafood, Shopping & Sightseeing in Stockholm

Maybe it's just the order that we visited in, but I couldn't help but think of Stockholm like Oslo's younger and way more hip cousin. Most Swedes I saw on the street (even the children!) looked like they jumped out of a fashion spread, but the city itself just has a much more adventuresome and happening vibe. Coffee houses and internet cafés abound, which in addition to being quite affordable (especially in comparison to Paris) are also great for people watching and trendspotting.

The gastronomic scene is a lot more exciting as well. In addition to The Cube, one of my favorite meals was at Blasieholmens Akvarium och Restaurang (or B.A.R.), which features a wide array of fresh seafood cooked to order. I opted for a thick, steak-like tuna variety called bonito, lightly seared and served up with a sweet, tangy red pepper sauce. (It's basically the seafood equivalent to The Counter; after you choose a fish you pick out sides and sauces).

Stockholm has plenty of cool bars for weary travelers to take a break from pounding the streets. Some, like Flyt, take advantage of the city’s waterways by converting old boats to relaxing hangouts that gently bob in the wind. But I also enjoyed the sky bar at Och Himlen Dartill which, located on the 26th floor, was a nice vantage point from which to admire the city skyline at night.

Aside from the delicious food and drinks, my favorite visit was easily the Fotografiska – Stockholm’s venerable photography museum.  Exhibitions rotate frequently throughout the year, but in honor of London 2012 they had an awesome Olympics-themed sports photography collection. Too bad we were still full from dinner, because the café upstairs (whose riverfront view deserves mention) seemed quite popular.

The shopping is great too, as would be expected in such a fashion-forward city. Downtown contains name brand designers along with staples like H&M, Zara and the largest Urban Outfitters I’ve ever set foot in. But even so, I preferred the more eclectic boutiques and funky vintage shops in Södermalm (basically the Swedish equivalent to Williamsburg).

I'm a little sad to leave behind Swedish hospitality - pretty much everywhere you go you're greeted with a cheerful "Hey, hey!" Let's hope Helsinki can match it.