Another weekend after another four-day, fifty-plus hour work week. Praise be. Blessed be the fruit, etc. etc.

Last week two of my dearest college friends were in town, so I got to show off the city I've come to know and love, make good use of my employee discount with the restaurant group's wine and cocktail bars, and cross some things off my Stockholm bucket list.

Drottningholm Palace, about 45 minutes away from the city by public transportation, is the main private residence of the Swedish royal family. Situated on the island Lovön, it's similar to Fontainebleau in size and scale. Geometric, Last Year at Marienbad-esque hedges and manicured gardens (including a random off-leash dog park) surround the mansion. And, on the mid-morning weekday that we visited, it was gloriously empty.

Visitors are allowed to wander some of the palace's oldest and grandest rooms, as well as the Chinese Pavilion (a birthday gift to a previous monarch from her husband), with the purchase of a ticket, but the vast gardens operate as a public park. The 18 kilometer Antiquities Trail runs along the border of the entire property; my friends expressed interest but I was secretly glad that we opted not to do that.

Photos below. Click to enlarge.

The gardens are dotted with statues like this one.

View of the city center from Monteliusvägan.

It's been almost exactly five years since my first (and previous) visit to Stockholm, yet it took almost no time at all for me to remember why I liked it so much. Of the many positive attributes I could reel off, I'll just limit myself to these three: it's clean, green, and the people are friendly. Only 2.5 of those are true of San Francisco; guess which ones.

There are four of us stages (pronounced the French way with an ah for those outside of the restaurant industry): a Serb, an Indian, a Swede by birth (though not by blood), and me. I am the only female in the cohort, but thankfully one of the full-time cooks is also. Stages have long been a cornerstone of fine dining, but no matter how much we support the team, we are never fully a part of it. And so, we band together; knock back beers; trade stories; bond over the challenges of living abroad.

Photos from exploits with new friends below.

One of many antique shops in Gamla Stan (old town).

Visitors and food trucks at Hornstulls Marknad.

Maybe it's just the order that we visited in, but I couldn't help but think of Stockholm like Oslo's younger and way more hip cousin. Most Swedes I saw on the street (even the children!) looked like they jumped out of a fashion spread, but the city itself just has a much more adventuresome and happening vibe. Coffee houses and internet cafés abound, which in addition to being quite affordable (especially in comparison to Paris) are also great for people watching and trendspotting.

The gastronomic scene is a lot more exciting as well. In addition to The Cube, one of my favorite meals was at Blasieholmens Akvarium och Restaurang (or B.A.R.), which features a wide array of fresh seafood cooked to order. I opted for a thick, steak-like tuna variety called bonito, lightly seared and served up with a sweet, tangy red pepper sauce. (It's basically the seafood equivalent to The Counter; after you choose a fish you pick out sides and sauces).

Stockholm has plenty of cool bars for weary travelers to take a break from pounding the streets. Some, like Flyt, take advantage of the city’s waterways by converting old boats to relaxing hangouts that gently bob in the wind. But I also enjoyed the sky bar at Och Himlen Dartill which, located on the 26th floor, was a nice vantage point from which to admire the city skyline at night.

Aside from the delicious food and drinks, my favorite visit was easily the Fotografiska – Stockholm’s venerable photography museum. Exhibitions rotate frequently throughout the year, but in honor of London 2012 they had an awesome Olympics-themed sports photography collection. Too bad we were still full from dinner, because the café upstairs (whose riverfront view deserves mention) seemed quite popular.

The shopping is great too, as would be expected in such a fashion-forward city. Downtown contains name brand designers along with staples like H&M, Zara and the largest Urban Outfitters I’ve ever set foot in. But even so, I preferred the more eclectic boutiques and funky vintage shops in Södermalm (basically the Swedish equivalent to Williamsburg).

I'm a little sad to leave behind Swedish hospitality - pretty much everywhere you go you're greeted with a cheerful "Hey, hey!" Let's hope Helsinki can match it.

A sleek, modern dining room and kitchen set atop a world-famous landmark featuring a custom menu created by a top local chef. Such is the concept behind The Cube by Electrolux, a traveling pop-up restaurant currently perched on the roof of Stockholm's opera house. With just two seatings per day and a single table set for twenty guests, The Cube marries haute cuisine, design and ambience for an unforgettable and intimate dining experience.

Beginning with champagne and appetizers on the patio, we had a chance to mingle with our fellow diners while admiring the city from up high. The host made a quick introduction to The Cube, and then we went inside to be seated for our three-course lunch. It felt a bit strange at first dining with strangers, but thanks to the generous wine pairings it was only a matter of time before conversations flowed freely. (That, and Swedes seem to be quite friendly).

First up we had spider crab from Wales with pickled melon and melon sorbet paired with a riesling. Then, for the main course, chicken with licorice sauce, white onion and lime, served with shiraz. Dessert was a refreshing English pea and mint tart on a chocolate shell with coconut sorbet and second glass of champagne. And finally, in true French style (our chef originally hails from Lyon), lunch was followed by coffee, tea and mini Madeleines.

While it's too bad that the weather wasn't more cooperative, the food, company and scenery were more than enough to compensate. So if The Cube is ever in a city near you (the host hinted America might be next), take the splurge and make a reservation; you won't regret it.

Drottningholm Palace

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Seafood, Shopping & Sightseeing in Stockholm

Haute Dining at The Cube by Electrolux, Stockholm