In between all the eating and cooking in Barcelona, I did get to experience other aspects of the city. From the trendy Born neighborhood (my favorite, because of all the cool bars and boutiques) to the beach, which practically felt like a different city, and the sprawling Parc Montjüic just south of where I stayed, there was no end to all the fascinating sights. Below, some of my favorites. See the rest on Flickr.
Doing my thing.
Oops. Another food post. I could have written about visiting the Picasso Museum (his early work - we're talking sketches he did when he was 9 - are surprisingly formal and realistic), going to the post office (where I helped out a Canadian who didn't speak Spanish) to send some things home and make room in my suitcase for the fruits of a shopping excursion, or getting sunburned, but those are all probably less interesting than the class I took from Cook & Taste.
We began our afternoon with a tour through nearby Boqueria Market - one of the oldest and most important in the area. Following our chef like chicks trailing a hen, we wove our way between the stalls watching as she selected ingredients for the meal. I saw some items I sort of wish I hadn't, like tripe, tongues and amorphous blobs that apparently are some kind of mysterious sea creature. But, everywhere you went, the quality and freshness of the produce were obvious. (Nearby restaurants source their ingredients there). After about an hour of wandering we returned to the kitchen and met up with the rest of the class.
At this time I suddenly recalled how my brother once called me a "middle-aged housewife" in reference to my (then) veganism and penchant for yoga, pilates and cooking. When I saw the rest of my peers, it was obvious that I was the only person under 35 - except for a young guy who was clearly dragged along by his parents. What can I say? Maybe I just have an old soul.
Over the course of the next few hours we learned how to prepare romesco (a red sauce of blended nuts, garlic, onion and sweet dried peppers), red bell pepper soup with toasted saffron and cod, paella, and a traditional cake from Ibiza. Despite the fact that I had signed up for the class to get more experience cooking savory food, I ended up helping with the dessert.
Regardless, I had forgotten how relaxing it is to cook in a domestic setting - without wearing a uniform and having someone constantly barking orders at you. Oh, and drinking wine - lots of wine. Once the vino got flowing the guests, who had mostly signed up as couples, started to get more friendly.
But, of course, the best part was eating all of our hard work at the end.
Apologies for the uninspired, SEO-optimized title. But since Barcelona is, gastronomically speaking, much more interesting than anywhere I visited in Portugal, I just had to keep track of all the places I went to and had yummy things. Because after all, what's a chef to do in a new city other than eat?
The following was curated from personal recommendations from friends as well as a few websites that I follow and trust. Got any to add? Let me know!
1. Romesco. Carrer de Sant Pau, 28. (It's actually around the corner from #28 on a tiny side street that's unnamed on Google Maps).
Hidden away from all the touristy tapas restaurants that line La Rambla, this is pretty much a tiny Spanish diner that serves hearty, simple meals for under 10€.
2. Hotel 1898. La Rambla, 109.
Rooftop bars are notoriously exclusive, but if you stride through the lobby with confidence and ride the elevator (hint: the lift on the far right is the only one that goes to the roof) up to the 7th floor, you will be rewarded with a lovely view and comfy couches and fleece blankets on the swanky terrace.
3. LUKUMAS. Carrer del Torrent de l'Olla, 169.
What's this? A donut shop? Try the dulce de leche and you'll understand why it made my list. Lukumas is relatively close to Parc Güell, which is to say a bit far from the city center, but if you're heading up north why not kill two birds with one stone...
4. EspaiSucre. Carrer de la Princesa, 53.
I could probably dedicate an entire post to this dessert-only restaurant that doubles as a culinary school but I'll try to keep it short. Food-wise you can select from a variety of tasting menus or be lame and just eat sweet tapas. I went for tasting menu 1. And it was easily one of the best dining experiences I've ever had. Reserve a table ahead online because the dining room isn't very large.
5. Bubó. Carrer Caputxes, 6.
A pâtisserie to rival those in Paris. I went around breakfast time and had the gianduja croissant (filled with chocolate hazelnut and topped with caramelized nuts), but my chef friends tell me their chocolates and cakes are also good.
6. Casa Delfin. Passeig del Born, 36.
I couldn't leave Barcelona without trying some tapas, but since this is the only place I tried I don't have anything to compare it to. No complaints about the food though!
7. La Taqueria. Passeig Font, 5. (Not pictured, because it was rather dark inside).
I never found any decent Mexican food in Paris (I swear it's impossible to get anything spicy in that city), so I was quite pleased when I found this little hole-in-the-wall. Portions are a bit small for the price, but the quality and flavor make up for it. Located just a stone's throw from the Sagrada Familia, you can do as I did and reward yourself with chicken tacos after braving the crowds at the church.
After three trips to the Orange store on La Rambla Catalunya to get my Spanish SIM card up and running (I guess the saying really is true), I was desperate to see the city beyond the confines of my Airbnb host's apartment near Plaça Espanya and the touristy shopping area where pickpockets are known to thrive. So I headed to Plaça Reial and joined a free walking tour of Antoni Gaudí's most famous works. Once upon a time I did a presentation for Spanish class on the famous architect, but as I followed my guide around it became evident that all that knowledge had long since disappeared.
Here are five of the most interesting things - in no particular order - that I learned on the tour. And a few photos. (I took a lot more but upon closer inspection many of them turned out to be shit. Oh well, it happens).
1. Parc Güell was originally supposed to be a commune for the wealthy. But when it became apparent that the only people who actually wanted to live there were Gaudí, his patron Güell and one of their mutual friends the space was converted.
2. George Lucas once visited Barcelona and was quite inspired by Gaudí's work. In fact, rumor has it that the "masked" smokestack on top of Casa Milà provided inspiration for the look of Darth Vador and the Storm Troopers.
3. The architect created models upside down by using string and weights proportional to the actual building materials, then set up mirrors so he could draw the structure right-side up.
4. Towards the end of his life he became increasingly eccentric, refusing to buy new clothes or refurnish his apartment despite the healthy commissions he received. He died as a result of injuries sustained from being hit by a tram - the driver thought he was just a vagrant as did passersby, who didn't bother to help because no one recognized him as the famous architect. Gaudí was eventually taken to a hospital but by then it was too late, and he passed away shortly thereafter. His funeral was attended by thousands.
5. Gaudí designed the tiles paving the Passeig de Gracia. Inspired by the sea floor, they were supposed to be for the Casa Batlló, but when they weren't finished in time he donated the molds to the city council.
